Going North, Up The Coastal Highway

Wilmington homes exploding with color

By the end of April, the Spring foliage is in full bloom here in The South. Heading north from Charleston, we wind up US 17, on track for our destination for this segment of the adventure, The Outer Banks. Once leaving Mount Pleasant, there is a lot of wide open road along the seacoast until you reach the quaint little seaport of Georgetown, North Carolina. More beautiful tree lined and flower lined streets fill this historic place. As we have found, there was a lot of 18th and 19th century activity in the area. Our main reason for pulling off the road here, as you might guess, was to visit the original location of an area bakery (maybe we should think about renaming this blog..."Harvey and Smarty's Bakery Stops!") that we grew to love in Mount Pleasant, Kudzu http://www.kudzubakery.com/.

Kudzu Bakery in Georgetown

As usual, we just stumbled on it while shopping in the area. From the minute we walked in we knew it was the real deal. Their baked goods and breads are totally scratch, and one's more amazing than the next. We loaded up with goodies and kept heading up the road, past Pawley's Island (Yep! There really is a place named after the famous hammocks...or is it the other way around?), and then to the southern part of the Myrtle Beach area, Murrells Inlet and then Surfside Beach. Myrtle Beach surprised us a little. We expected an old, worn looking area with lots of t-shirt shops. There is that, up the road from the main, newer area of the beach, but this newer area is what we saw first. There are high rise hotels and condos, nice stores and restaurants, and pretty parks and beach areas. It's easy to see why people, especially from the Eastern half of the country flock here. The older, t-shirt and surf shop part didn't show itself until the next morning as we started heading towards North Myrtle Beach. If you go for that kind of place, there is about a five mile strip of it there. Have fun!  We keep rolling up Highway 17 and land in Leland, NC, just a few miles from downtown Wilmington. It's raining, so we pull in to a new, nice looking Wal Mart lot in this newer area, and unhook Smarty to see what it's like here. We stayed seven nights right in the Wal Mart lot, using our fresh water tanks and all the solar electricity we could absorb to keep the house running. All systems worked perfectly, and we could have even stretched it if we needed. How is it to live in a Wal Mart lot for a week? Interesting!

H2 and friend at Wally World

There's a Carolina chain of good coffee places in the area called Port City Java http://www.portcityjava.com/ We packed up our briefcases in the morning and used their neat little shop, located a couple of blocks from our (Wal Mart) home and worked during the day and explored at night.
 The magnificent Magnolias and Crepe Myrtles are coming alive and especially the Azaleas. Almost every town in The Carolinas has an Azalea Festival, but the Granddaddy of them all is the one in Wilmington http://www.ncazaleafestival.org/. No kidding, this is to Wilmington what Mardi Gras is to New Orleans or Mobile! And it's no wonder. This town literally explodes with color at this time each year. It is the quintessential South, and everyone should be lucky enough to experience it at least once. Wilmington is an understated city. It's population is a little over 100,000, but the greater area is about 250,000. Ever heard of Cape Fear? This is the center for the area known as Cape Fear (named after the river). In other words, this is not really a "cape" like Hatteras, it's an entire region. The movie(s) made the name famous, but this place has lots more to offer than a Hollywood story. First, the city is a living museum, much like Savannah and Charleston. It has deep roots in ship building, and the marine history is everywhere you look. Many of the buildings date back to the early 1700's!

Wilmington River Walk Downtown

Another interesting tidbit about Wilmington is that it's a relatively large movie and tv production town. In fact, the last blockbuster Iron Man 3 movie was done here. We explored the surrounding areas too, like Southport, another historic sea town a few miles drive...to the south of Wilmington. More historic homes with plaques dating them all the way back to Pre Revolutionary War times, more quaint shops, and a very pretty waterfront park and pier. The beaches nearby are cities in their own right, especially Wrightsville and Carolina Beach. Mary Ann had a fun surprise too. Her friend and boss when she was in the apparel business, Joe, surfaced! She had been trying to reach him, knowing that he must still live in the Myrtle Beach area, where he's originally from, and she had no luck...until a phone call reunited them finally. He was indeed still in Myrtle Beach and agreed to drive up, since we were already in Wilmington. We had a great dinner together in downtown, and the two old friends got to do some catching up! We did finally leave our Wal Mart home, and continued to dead head it towards The Outer Banks. Our landing spot, next, takes us to the Beaufort, Moorhead City, Newport area (go to your map to pinpoint us). From there as base camp, by ferry and Smarty, to legendary ports off the coast, like Ocracoke, Cape Hatteras, and finally Kitty Hawk.

The pier at the waterfront in Southport

Route 17!

After an amazing week at The Marriott Monarch Resort in Hilton Head, we continue to track up US Highway 17, also known as The Coastal Highway. Highway 17 runs pretty  much parallel with  I95 from Florida to Virginia. In some areas it runs closer to the Atlantic though, and that's why we're on it. Destination now: Charleston, South Carolina, for a revisit. The first time there, as was true for Savannah, we just touched on the area. This time we intend to dig in. Our specific landing spot, from info we gathered last time, is James Island, an area about 10 minutes Southwest of downtown. The James Island County Park http://www.ccprc.com/index.aspx?NID=1434 has a full service rv park and is a regional destination for all things outdoors for the area. There are festivals of every imaginable variety going on just about every week there. During our visit, a Cajun Festival and The East Coast Paddle Sports and Outdoor Festival happened. There are venues for cycling, boating, running, camping, swimming, just about anything you could do outside, including just sitting among the beautiful trees and foliage and watching shrimp boats in the rivers, gliding along, sometimes magically appearing like they're skimming on top of the saw grass fields.

James Island County Park near Charleston

This time we stayed long enough to get a real feel for the area. We walked almost every street downtown, looked at the amazing homes (many dating back to the 1700's), visited other neighborhoods nearby, like Johns Island, Kiawa, and Mount Pleasant. All of those places have their own special vibe and charm. In fact, Johns Island is home to one of our favorite eating places...anywhere in this entire country (at least the small part of it we've seen so far). We went to The Fat Hen www.thefathen.com a few years ago, on our first visit, and were impressed with it right away. Low Country French is how they describe themselves, but I had one of the most stellar burgers there...and the fries! Oh my! I'm sure the other choices are incredible, but I just can't get past that hamburger. In fact, I had it twice. I even asked the chef to whip up some of the tomato jam (instead of good old Heinz, which does a disservice to this burger!) they serve with the fried green tomatoes that M A ordered, and that totally threw it over the top of the left field wall! Mary Ann is a bit more adventurous and also tried a chicken dish and some veggies and grits and the report was also many starred. It's a good drive from the downtown tourist area, but well worth the time to get there, and a beautiful one too.

Walking along the waterfront in Charleston

 Aside from about a hundred long and short drives in to downtown, we explored other areas too. West Ashley, a gentrified neighborhood just west of downtown, full of bars and cool eateries, is close to where we were stationed in James Island. It's just a bridge or two away! We drove over to Sea Island and Kiawa, a newer posh development with an already very famous golf course. In fact, it's soo posh, the new Marriott Courtyard Hotel doesn't even have any visible signage, only "Boutique Hotel" can be seen from the outside. Mount Pleasant is east of downtown, over the Ravenel Bridge. It's home to lots of local seafood places, marinas, and most of the really important shopping for the Charleston area (like Trader Joe's and Whole Foods for us). After a couple of weeks in the area, and the revisit to Savannah, we think we might even qualify for the test to be local tour guides! Well, ya never know!!

Ravenel Bridge connecting Charleston & Mt. Pleasant

 As a side note, while in Charleston, Smarty decided to have a heart attack! His fuel pump (get it?) went out and that lead to another failure with his complicated and computerized innards. The crankshaft sensor also failed. So Mary Ann picked me up in the Best Buy parking lot with H2 , where I was stuck. Who ever knew we'd be using our roving house as a tow truck one day! We hooked up Smart, moved to a Walmart lot for the night, and early the next morning reported in at Baker Motors, the Charleston Mercedes/Smart Dealer. They gave us a Mercedes SUV to drive while Smart was being operated on (4 days!), and even let us stay the first night in H2 in their back lot before relocating back to James Island, while we waited for the news of Smart's condition. By the end of the week, he was returned...ALIVE! After almost 58,000 flawless miles, we figured that we were due for some maintenance issues. Hopefully, after this repair and a thorough 60,000 mile preventive maintenance check up, maybe we'll get some more good service from the little guy...so far, so good! One thing we've learned, full time rv'ing for almost four years, is that stuff can and will happen and break while we're on the road. Our philosophy is to try and keep it as simple if possible, and having the Smart as a tow car does just that. It has proven to be safe, reliable transportation, backed by the nationwide Mercedes Benz network. Is it the cheapest way to go? No, but it is a practical way for us.
 After a day or two checking to make sure Smarty's repairs had taken, we left Charleston behind and headed up US 17 for the next stop on our route to The Outer Banks, one of the most famous tourist towns on the East Coast, Myrtle Beach, and the beautiful and historic city of Wilmington, North Carolina.