Monday, November 14, 2011

Gallup, New Mexico




We began heading West, towards Northern Arizona, in the beginning of September. We wanted to get to the Flagstaff area before it got too cold. But the thought of slowing down in Gallup was too overpowering. We'd been told that Gallup is the real center of the universe for the American Indian culture...not Santa Fe, Albuquerque, or even the lands near the Four Corners Region. Gallup, as we found out for ourselves, is the place where many of the Indian artists and craftspeople take their finished goods to sell to the trade. The trade, as it turns out, are the many trading posts you see in the area. Some of these places date back to the 1800's and represent the trust set up between the white settlers and the native people. The white traders are the banking system for the Indians. They sell, or sometimes even pawn, their goods to these trading post people and wait for their money from the government or any other income to replentish them. The system has been operating like this since the first white people came from the east and continues to this day. Walking into some of the trading posts is an experience that may beg more questions than answers at first. Like "where do all these old saddles come from?" Some places have hundreds of them..all lined up inside the store. Answer? The Indians pawn them every time they need extra money, and then when it comes in, they come back for the saddle! Fascinating! More fascinating is the trust built up over the years between the traders and the Indians. A whole, separate financial system exists out here. Prices for good Indian jewelry and other goods is far lower here than in Santa Fe, Scottsdale, or other fashionable places to buy it. We took a side trip to Canyon de Chelly (pronounced "DESHAY") and the Hubbell Trading Post, fairly close by, and had a tour of the area.John Hubbell was a postal employee in Albuquerque and was bored with city life. The story goes, he got on a horse, rode until he reached this remote place, settled down here and bought the newly established post in 1878. He gained the Navajo's trust and the post continued operating within the same family until 1965, when it was sold to the US government, still operating and, today, is a living museum. Many now famous Indian artists traded their creations for staples and Hubbell began to amass an amazing collection, some of which is still displayed here. The trading post looks about the same as it did a hundred years ago. you can still buy many of the same goods here as then. Although we wouldn't consider Gallup a major vacation destination, it served our purpose well, to explore the Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi areas...and afford a place for Mary Ann to add another piece of silver inlay jewelry (a beautiful ring) to her collection!

Saturday, October 1, 2011

Albuquerque


  • Albuquerque ( I finally learned how to spell it without looking it up, while staying here!) is a town of many hidden charms. A lot of people we know dismiss it, and when compared with much smaller neighbor Santa Fe, they ask "why bother, there's not much to do there." Hidden charms! Sometimes you have to dig down a little, and in this case it's well worth it. Downtown is very active by day and night. Areas like the Old Town, the original settlement, which dates back hundreds of years, is filled with cool shops, galleries, eateries, and walking venues. The Central Avenue area is lined with theaters, more stores, and more interesting places to eat. A couple we have sampled are The Artichoke Cafe http://artichokecafe.com/ where they do a sort of Italian leaning menu, with some really unusual choices. Much more casual, and only open during the day is The Grove http://www.thegrovecafemarket.com/ where everything is fresh, local,and very delicious. The place has a very West Coast feel. Just look at their website...and you will get hungry! Oh, and I almost forgot their english muffins. So what..english muffins? These are the english muffins to measure all others by..forever. First, they weigh about a pound each. Second, they have the most amazing flavor. They're soft and fluffy and chewy...and ggghhhhh... hard to just write about. They're needing to be experienced...in your mouth. See the picture up there. It doesn't do them justice. Enough said. These places are on Central, which is Route 66, and, as mentioned, in the historic East Downtown area. Further east, on the other side of I-25, still on Central, you'll find a lot of old original Route 66 motels and diners. This is also the area where the main campus of The University of New Mexico is located, so it can have a little bit of a funky feel in spots too. Not a bad thing, for here is where The Frontier http://www.frontierrestaurant.com/ is located. A sprawling old building houses one of Albuquerque's true dining treasures. Funky? You betcha! Walk up to one of the many order stations and tell them you want a burger, enchiladas, breakfast all day...whatever, then wait 'till they call your number. Go pick up your tray, and wow!!! You're back in school again! The place is all ambiance. The food is ok, not fine dining by any stretch, but lots of fun for just being there. It kind of reminds us of a smaller version of The Varsity in Atlanta. For some serious food, keep going east on Central until you get to Zinc Wine Bar http://www.zincabq.com/ .We've been going here for years, and it never fails us. Kevin Roessler, the managing partner, welcomes us whenever we pop in and always makes us feel at home. They have a great open kitchen, use really fresh ingredients, and the chef, Chris Pope, is usually around supervising the crew. We normally sit at their food bar so we can watch the preparation. Amazing still, how just a few people, well organized, can produce so many beautiful plates of food...all at one time! Last time there, one of the specials was Wild Halibut with heirloom rice, fava beans, sugar snap peas & braised baby red artichokes, cool sweet cherry tomato chutney. Delicious. In addition to these, there are nothing but surprisingly terrific restaurants all over town. After eating our way through the city, we spent a couple of days doing some large market shopping and personal maintenance ( M A had a day at the Aveda Salon), and we headed over to the Smart Car Dealership to outfit Smarty for the ride. Other than some normal maintenance for him too, he had his new bike hitch installed! A Smart Car with two bicycles riding on the back end! What a sight!! The next stop, after leaving the Big A....Gallup, New Mexico, and more kicks..on Route 66. Why would anyone spend a week in Gallup, New Mexico? Stay tuned right here.

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

The Next Chapter 2011

It would be safe ( and a BIG understatement!!) to say that a lot has happened since our last post! This past May, we made the decision to give up our cushy centrifugal force life in Dallas, and trade it in for, what to us, is a totally different and exciting adventure. We put all of our stuff that we felt we might want someday (5500 pounds left of downsizing!), outfitted Harvey for his new role as our permanent house on wheels, and set out for New Mexico...as full time motorhomers! Yes, what started out a few years ago as a great new way to travel, has turned out as a great new way to live. On May 15th we headed for Carlsbad so Mary Ann could take care of some family business, then on to Santa Fe, where we had a second home for eleven years until 2005. We picked it to start our adventure for several reasons: A) The cool summer weather with great mountain lightning storms at night, B) Our familiarity with every nook and cranny of the place, C) The way better than average availability of great (healthy) food, between the amazing organic farmers market, a myriad of good groceries ( Natural Grocers, Trader Joe's, TWO Whole Foods stores, and an better than average array of good restaurants which we'll touch on in a moment), and D) The easy availability of outdoor activities which we both have been sorely missing, living in Dallas. Don't get us wrong. We love Dallas and both feel it is one of the best huge cities in the U.S. to live in. We were just ready for a change.



So here we set up housekeeping in Santa Fe. One of our goals is to head to places we're interested in, and live there for at least a month so we can absorb what it's really like, not just skim the surface. We planted ourselves just south of town, at the Santa Fe Skies RV Park, owned by the Brown family. We picked the right place because we ended up stretching what was a month's stay...to three months! We spent almost the whole summer there. Not only was our hunch right about all the elements of Santa Fe, we got spoiled by the Brown's way of running an RV park. All park owners should go and visit them to see how one should be run. The property sits high on a hill, with mountain views in all directions. It's a small parcel of land on what is called Brown Castle Ranch, the family's real estate they have owned for many years. It's about a five minute drive to town, so it's very conveniently located.

It has been a few years since we spent a lot of time in Santa Fe, but it still feels very much like home to us. As with all tourist dependent towns, it has changed some too. There is a lot more traffic than we remembered and lots more stores. Cerrillos Road and St. Francis Drive, two of the main arteries into town can be almost gridlocked at certain times of the day, a situation that we didn't expect. The restaurant scene is still very active. Santa Fe is one of the few places we've visited that you can eat out and not feel like you've just had a dose of chemically treated, mass produced, institutional food. Many places feature local and even organic ingredients. Some of our favorites are Joe's http://joesdinerandpizza.com/ , Chocolate Maven (they deserve an entire posting for their pastries!) http://chocolatemaven.com/ , and Real Food Nation (and their sibling The Supper Club, a high end place where the chef was formerly with Cafe Escalera, a legendary Santa Fe eatery from days past) http://realfoodnation.biz/ . The Supper Club deserves special recognition too, because we find it often left off the trendy SF articles from so called authorities on food. They lately seem to have the same half dozen or so places in their must dine lists, in a town with a disproportionate number of amazing restaurants for it's size.


Well, after eating and hiking most of the trails, and Mary Ann taking hours of intensive Yoga training from her instructor, Tias Little, towards certification, and biking our way through our home away from home ( one day we even took The Rail Runner train into downtown with our bikes!), in the beginning of September we finally decided to head to new territory....